For his second menswear outing, Riccardo Tisci led Givenchy into new waters, with a futuristic, nautical-inspired collection with the undercurrents of goth and bondage he finds so irrresistible. To be sure, laced-up leather leggings and thigh-high glitter boots may not be for your average mariner, but Tisci is only beginning to get his feet wet in the men’s department after four years as Givenchy’s couturier. The show opened strongly with dramatic navy capes and pea coats, which he toughened by paving black leather over the sleeves or torso. Tisci also demonstrated his formidable talent at the cutting table with suits that were youthful, trim and sleek, with strong shoulders and hidden plackets. Streetwise hooded sweatshirts, glossy down jackets and screen-printed tees were less convincing for this French brand, but Tisci is bound to find his sea legs. Point is, it's way far from Hubert de Givenchy's idea of couture. Key people at luxury goods behemoth LVMH constantly betray the spirit of a label. They make business first. Too bad.
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